Portland Monthly Magazine (Sept 2007)

pdx-monthly.jpgMOSCOW MULES AND MUSSELS- …Nestled comfortably in a row of posh Nob Hill shops and upscale eateries, North 45 fancies itself an international pub for travelers of all sorts, a conceit the owners cultivated mainly by hanging framed foreign currency around the 1,100 square foot room. An atrium-style skylight punctuates the high-ceiling, and five lofty shelves of spirits stand arrayed behind the dark wood bar. As a warm-weather gathering place, the space is rather ho-hum, especially with the spacious patio beckoning, but it sees far more action when the clouds roll in.

Once you’re ensconced at one of the dozen picnic tables out back, a cursory scan of the menu reveals prices geared for the platinum-card crowd. But for the most part, splurging on any of the eight mussel entrees ($14 for a huge bowl) is a worthwhile investment. Each order arrives swimming in a distinctive zesty broth and is paired with frites seasoned to compliment it, such as the curry fries that accompany the piquant coconut-lemongrass mussels. While there’s a whole school of seafood options on the menu- such as the delectable crab cakes and sesame-spiked ahi tuna poke- it’s the mussels that provide the most irresistible flavors.

Thankfully the beverages, including 10 sturdy Belgium beers in a bottle, are on par with the chow. The California Chillum, a routine blend of grapefruit, vodka and cranberry, is elevated dramatically by the bartender’s near-obsessive proportioning; the Pisco Sour is tart, crisp and balmy; and the formidable Yucatan Margarita gets additional style points for its luxurious float of Grand Marnier. And yes, the Moscow Mule could be a rising tsar indeed- were it not served in such a vexing vessel. (North 4; 517 NW 21st Ave, 502-248-6317)- John Chandler

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